Making the Wabi Necklace

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jewelry-finished
When I decided to make a necklace for Paula from a piece of cocobolo wood that I had found in the scrap bin at the local lumber yard, I had no idea how it would turn out. All I knew was that I had a unique piece of wood and a workshop full of tools.

template I used an ancient technique for transferring a sketch onto a piece of wood called “whacking the edge with a pencil.” It was taught to me by an old man back in mainland China over 50 years ago. Or was it 500? Either way, Kung-Fu was involved. Pretty much you just cut the sketch out and whack the edge of it with a pencil. I find that it gives a nice, accurate transfer that can be traced along the hash marks.

The process of making this pendant can be boiled down to five steps: cut, sand, drill, wipe, and wear.

Step 1: Cut

bandsaw-mike Here I’m roughly following the shape of my sketch on a 1/4″ piece of bocote wood. Since my dinky bandsaw doesn’t make the greatest cuts and has a hard time staying accurate, I like to finish the edges of small parts on my belt sander.

You may notice that I’m wearing some protective gear. I advise you to do the same.

bandsaw-cut Chop, chop – I try to keep my fingers out of the “danger zone” that is the yellow throat plate.

bandsaw-shape cutout Here’s some time-traveling photography showing the part that’s already sanded.

point Here’s the rough cut necklace blank – notice the irregular edges.

Step 2: Sand

belt-sander-sand First, I’ll use the sander to bring the edges of the piece in-line with the sketch that I drew. A quality mask is important for power sanding! This spot on the sander is my favorite – there’s no backplate, so the sanding belt forms a slight curve when I press down on it. Perfect for shaping the pendant.

belt-sander-check I’m very good in the overdo-ification department, so a quick glance throughout the sanding process keeps me from overdoing it and ruining the piece.

belt-sander-bevel The next step is a little more tricky and dangerous. YES! Danger is my middle name. I start by sanding a bevel around the face of the necklace. This helps me see where I’ll place the front edge of the finished necklace. From that point, I’ll gently work the bevel toward the center until all the edges meet, hopefully eliminating any flat spots in the center. (Danger is not really my middle name. Yes it is.)

belt-sander-side belt-sander-mike belt-sander-crop2 Now I’m working the bevel inwards. I’m going for a conical shape instead of a true radius – similar to the edge of a Macbook.

belt-sander-flat Be careful here! With this much contact on the belt sander, watch your knuckles and finger tips, and be ready for things to fly if it gets out of control. It’s much faster to cut out another piece of wood than grow fresh knuckle meat…trust me, I’ve tried both. Thin parts are in danger of getting stuck under the fence as well, which make cool looking potato chips that taste like wood.

belt-sander-bottom belt-sander-machine Try not to allow your eyeballs absorb too much sawdust and splinters. I like a moderate amount, but it can get uncomfortable quickly if not controlled.

hand-sanding I use a small piece of 320 sandpaper to sand away the scratch marks left by the 60grit belt sander. I’m not too worried about getting it perfectly smooth…some of the natural wood texture in the finished piece is nice.

Step 3: Drill

drill-hole Looking at the edge, you can see the irregular curve of the top surface. I really like the way that looks, as it shows the character of a handmade piece, instead of the perfection of something manufactured.

drill-wood I usually use a combination of laser vision and inner rage to bore the hole, but that gets tiring. I use a drill press now. I think this was a 3/32″ bit.

Step 4: Linseed Oil

linseed-bocote A Tung oil finish tends to looks nicer, but the long drying time keep me from using it. Lately, I’ve been experimenting with boiled linseed oil which goes on easily and dries quickly. Although it seems to take a few coats to keep the wood looking rich, the natural look of the wood after the oil had soaked in is appealing – much more than a noticeable coat of polyurethane. Here, you can see the stark difference on the bocote wood after the oil is applied.

linseed-cocobolo-wipe Cocobolo getting the same linseed oil treatment.

colors-compare Here’s the linseed oil soaking into the wood. A quick buff after it’s dry returns some of the luster .

colors2 From left to right (as well as top to bottom on the stack behind the pendants): Bocote, Cocobola, and a rough cut piece of Cocobola wood.

Step 5: Wear

jewelry-box Yes, you are correct. That is a genuine Sanrio plastic tool box. Nothing but the toughest for real men.

jewelry-pry

jewelry-parts Here are the bits and pieces that I used for the necklace chain. Resist the urge to eat them. I cannot, but I’m hoping you’re better than me.

tina Voilà! Here’s our friend Tina wearing the Wabi Necklace in Bocote.

Posted: February 4th, 2011 Category: woodshop
  • http://torimarissa.wordpress.com/2011/03/06/haunted/ haunted. | creative calla

    [...] four. i love this gorgeous necklaces. [...]

  • http://healingartswebdesign.com Dave

    Wonderful work and wonderful detailing of your process. Cool read!

  • http://www.tinkeringmonkey.com Tinkering Monkey

    Thanks, Dave.

  • http://twitter.com/1987phd Pedro Henrique Deleu

    Incrível seu trabalho. Minha namorada ficou louca por um deste.

  • http://www.tinkeringmonkey.com Tinkering Monkey

    Haha! Tell her we said thanks.

  • http://marlaken.wordpress.com/2012/01/22/wood-necklace/ Wood Necklace | Marla's Art Page Blog

    [...] wood necklace is so pretty.  Tinkering Monkey shows you how.  It looks like an easy project for someone who has the right tools.  I may have [...]

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